“For me, its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surf is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud-rack; I can feel the spirit of its woody solitudes, I hear the plashing of the brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago.”
Mark Twain spoke these words in 1889, but they’re just as true today as they were 125 years ago. For a select group of East Coast surfers, Hawaii will always represent the Holy Grail of exposure, experience, and excitement. The North Shore in particular is a study in extremes: welcoming and intimidating, terrifying and exhilarating. It can make your day or ruin your year. Everything gets left behind when you’re staring down a Second Reef set at Pipeline or the inside bowl at Sunset. Generations of intrepid waveriders know the feeling — and although surfing has changed significantly, that feeling hasn’t.
When you fly home, there’s no better sensation than finding out that, among a sea of international chargers all intent on proving themselves, you nailed the shot. Which is what this Hawaii Flip Book is all about: honoring those moments that will live on in our minds by giving them eternal life online. -Nick McGregor