East Coasters, Locals Combine To Make Costa Rica A Vibrant Hotspot Words and photos by
Tom Dugan
Have you ever backed
onto a ferry and parked sideways along with the rest of the cars? If not, you
haven't been to Costa Rica. The ferry attendants took it all in stride as this
“English-only” gringo was guided backwards into a small vertical drop in the
back of the boat to park for the hour-long ride. After a three-day journey to
the northern Pacific coast, sleeping in a “hot” open-air cabina the last couple
of nights, and the long drive on dusty roads to the ferry, this surfer was
yearning for a cool breeze on the open water. Only problem? The wind was from
the stern so it zeroed out any breeze at all, causing a midday ration of heat,
the likes of which I could have done without.
The winds this time of
year blow mostly offshore all day, making for really clean waves and a barrel
or two. Very consistent head-high and bigger waves all year account for why
there are countless North American surfers taking advantage of the warm waters
and tropical settings that Costa Rica offers. From the regulars who come down
every year for a month or three, to the weeklong traveler just looking for some
warm water, the country offers all sorts of accessible breaks just off the
road. Floridians like Johnny Futch and Charlie Kuhn have started a land
development/ real estate biz, as has John Logan. Brad Hersh owns a cantina,
shapers like New Smyrna Beach, FL’s, Mark Wooster and Kill Devil Hills, NC’s, Michael
Price have full-fledged surf factories, and Floridian Don Long is the owner of
“Auto Tica” in Jaco Beach if you need your car fixed. The Garson brothers, Kyle
and Joel, along with their dad Rich own the long-running surf camp Loma Del
Mar, and post daily photos on their Rover Cam website. Californian Jimmy Hogan
also runs a surf camp and is Surfline’s man for daily photos and surf reports
under their cam at Hermosa Beach. And surfers that own property here are too
many to name: Todd Morcom, Matt Kechele, Ben Bourgeois… Other surfers who spend
extended time here include New Jersey’s Randy Townsend and Floridians Shea
Lopez and Eddie Guilbeau, among many others.
The locals are
stepping it up, too. You see good surfing being done by Costa Ricans at every
beach you visit. Yes, it is getting to be a challenge to find those uncrowded
waves here like in years past, but the really good thing is there are still
empty waves and new breaks being discovered. That’s the reason I come back here
year after year. The added bonus is the people, places, and wildlife that Costa
Rica has to offer. Someday I hope to build my dream home and reside here six
months out of the year when winter hits in the U.S., but until that day, this
gringo will just have to enjoy short visits when opportunity knocks.