TRAVELER'S NOTEBOOK:
A LITTLE
FARTHER ON DOWN THE ROAD
New England Natives Head South For Baja’s Wide Open Spaces Words and photos by Zak Bush
Sitting in San Diego waiting
for a call about our trip to Baja was a taxing experience.
To escape the freezing
winter surf in Nova Scotia, Dean Petty and I flew down to sunny California.
Both having relatives scattered around the state, it was a no-brainer. Dean’s
brother Mac and roommate Willy were both living in Santa Cruz, and had planted
a seed about heading down to Baja a few months back.
It turned out that Willy and
a couple of friends had bought a 1978 GMC Vandura motor home the previous summer.
None of them had oceanfront properties, so they purchased the ol’ beast, aptly
named “Norma,” as a temporary beachfront pad.
After a couple of hundred
dollars in repairs, Norma was ready to go. Willy, Dean, Mac, and T.K. started
trekking down the coast from Santa Cruz, testing Norma’s roadworthiness on
their way to pick me up in San Diego.
As they were heading down, I
was sitting with my family, who decided that it was a good idea to have an
intervention about the dangers of Mexico’s drug wars the night before we were
scheduled to leave, piquing my already anxious personality. When the boys
arrived, I didn’t even know if I was going to go down with them. CNN had put
the fear of God in my family’s hearts and minds, and they were kind enough to
pass it on to me.
When the boys showed up the
next day in their rickety, gutted ‘70s Vandura, my worries weren’t really put
to rest. But at this point I felt like I couldn’t back out of our trip. It
wasn’t all bad — there were three beds for five people, a camping stove,
two bikes, fishing gear, and a dog named Tea Bear. There was also an extensive
shared quiver that included longboards, shortboards, a fish, an alaia, a single-fin, a Doyle soft-top
and two boogieboards.
As we entered Mexico, my
head was on a swivel, ready to be in the middle of a drug war 50 feet across
the boarder. Dean, Mac, T.K., and Will looked at me as if I was crazy tucked in
the back of Norma. Our first stop was at a taco stand. The boys tumbled out of
Norma, Will leading the charge, engaging the first person he saw with his take
on the Spanish language. The local quickly explained that he hadn’t seen too
many gringos down this far because of their fear of getting shot. This didn’t
ease my anxiety, but I did take some comfort in hearing the calmness in his
voice and the seeming peaceful environment that we were in.
Being able to go on a surf
trip with such a diverse quiver takes away a lot of the stress of finding
waves. We arrived at the first point that we had scouted on our map to find
small, cross-shore, unorganized waves breaking over a cobblestone bottom. After
being in the car for so long, no one cared about the wave quality. Everyone
grabbed a vessel from the communal quiver and headed out. The waves where
shitty but we didn’t care — we were surfing a point with just our friends
out.
Late that night, well after
we’d squeezed ourselves into our shared sleeping quarters, my biggest fear came
to life. A banging at the RV door woke me. I peeked out the window to see the
blaring high beams of a big truck and the silhouettes of five men carrying five
really big guns. In my mind, I was thinking this was the end. I imagined being
tied up naked in the desert with no one around for miles and all of our
belongings, passports, and money gone with no way to get out of Mexico.
There was another bang
— clearly these guys weren’t going to leave. Will got out of his bed
naked and opened the door. A staunch poked his head and flashlight in to look
around.
“Drogas?” he questioned.
Obviously, we hadn’t been
stupid enough to carry drugs in Baja. Will, still naked, gave him a quick
answer in Spanish explaining that we didn’t do drugs and that we were in Baja
to go surfing. Somehow he managed to flip the conversation to a lighter topic
(probably by way of his lack of clothes).
“Donde estan la mujeres?” the soldier asked.
Will responded in a light
tone by saying, “No mujeres, todo
hombres… tenemos un perro.”
The soldier laughed. And
from that moment on I knew that we were OK — Will’s nudity and joking were
enough to completely change the direction of the soldiers’ questioning.
Three days later, we were
bumping down a dirt road in our ill-prepared RV hoping it would stay together
just until we got to our next campsite. As we cleared the crest of a hill our
next point came into view. Small, clean lines rolled around its corner, then
along a sand bottom to shore. A longboarding night session led to an alaia/longboard morning session in which
Dean honed his skills on his DIY wood plank and Mac curled his toes on the tip
of his 9’6” Takayama.
After a couple of days of
mini-pointbreak perfection, we saw that the ocean was going to go flat for a
week. We wanted to go south, and knowing that we needed a south swell for the
points down there, we decided instead to head to the Sea of Cortez and make the
best of a flat week.
The east coast of Baja is
very different from the west — warm water, more snowbirds, and really
great sailing. We rented a Drascombe longboat from National Outdoor Leadership
School, a 21-foot two-mast vessel that had multiple sail configurations
allowing it to sail in almost any wind. Mac had worked at NOLS a couple of
years back, and he knew how to read charts and captained our little vessel. For
seven days we sailed, camped, cooked, read, and hiked. But knowing that there
could be swell coming pulled us back to the west coast and further south to
another point.
Upon our arrival, we thought
that we had found heaven — no other surfers and a reeling righthander
that looked as if it was going to offer some serious barrels and perfect fast
sections. The next morning, expecting to find epic surf, we woke up to find
similar surf to the day before. We still went out, and for the first time on
our trip, the shorter boards came out of the shared quiver. Mac glided down the
line on a quad fish while Dean blew the tail out on his thruster.
Knowing that there was a
solid south swell on the way, it was hard to leave our perfect point. But
flights were booked and everyone had obligations in the real world. It’s always
hard leaving a spot with that much potential, knowing that waves were on the
way. But all in all we had a great trip with fun waves and amazing experiences.
Outside of our one military
encounter, we had none of the issues that I feared while waiting to be picked
up in San Diego. The majority of people we met were generous and friendly, and it
seems that every time I’ve been told to fear a place to which I’ve traveled, it’s
never as bad as I’m told. And Baja is definitely included on that list.