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Freshly returned from California after what he called
a successful west coast launch for his most recent book Ghost Wave, South Carolina surfer/author Chris Dixon is set to make
a number of appearances along the East Coast in December and January, starting
with a home-state party at Surf The Earth in Pawleys Island, SC, on December 10th
and continuing down the coast to Florida. The book, about Cortes Bank and the
characters, big waves, and heroic stories it harbors, has been garnering reviews that Dixon said
have left him “humbled,” and Ghost Wave is
reportedly selling well, having entered a second printing after barely a month
on the stands. Currently on Amazon.com, it’s right up there with Soul Surfer and The Wave on the surfing/watersports bestseller list. (Read a review
of Ghost Wave by ESM Assignment Writer Nathaniel Riverhorse Nakadate in ESM’s November 2011 issue on Page 32
here: http://easternsurf.com/ISSUES/ESM_ISSUE_157/)
Dixon will make several Florida appearances this
month, stopping at The Surf Station in St. Augustine on December 17th, the
Surfrider Foundation Cocoa Beach Chapter’s Holiday Party at the Cocoa Beach
Surf Museum on December 20th, PB Boys Club Surf Shop in Palm Beach on December
21st, and BC Surf Shop in Ft. Lauderdale on December 22nd. At each location,
Dixon will talk story about the book, sign a few copies for lucky attendees,
and give a version of the same presentation he delivered at Google Headquarters
with Greg Long, Jeff Clark, and Ken “Skindog” Collins in November. Being a New York Times-published author, EasternSurf.com let Dixon rap about how
it felt to give birth to Ghost Wave:
“I suppose in a weird way, this became a story I’d
been waiting a good part of my journalistic life to tell. I just didn’t know it
until Mike Parsons, Greg Long, Brad Gerlach, and Twiggy Baker went out in 2008
into the worst storm ever seen off California and saw the biggest waves of
their lives. The mission was just so hairball — completely insane. They
went out with a jet-ski and a 30-foot, open-hulled boat, 100 miles offshore
into the middle of one of if not the worst storms ever recorded off the
Southern California coast. The magnitude of what they did, when you think of
all the things that could have gone wrong… in my mind, it remains the most
dangerous and maybe the most stupid thing any surfer has ever done. I reported
on that mission for the New York Times in 800 words, but I wanted to really dig into that story, because there was not
only a lot of obvious in-your-face drama but behind the scenes too. Sean
Collins was begging the boys not to go. Mike Parsons’ wife Tara was at home
eight months pregnant, listening to Sean, and on top of that, Greg’s dad,
arguably the most experienced lifeguard on the whole west coast, refused to go
along to back up his son — and Greg’s brother Rusty refused to go too.
But Greg, Twiggy, Mike, and Brad — they went anyway.”
”I thought that tale alone — and the story of
these surfers, their biographies, the surf missions — could make for a
good book. But when I started researching, the thing I was completely unprepared
for was all the history I’d find — or that it went back so far. I had no
idea that the Bank had once been an island probably explored by the first
Californians. And I was just amazed at all the people who I found who had
nearly died out there — and I had a hell of a time finding most of them.
That was especially true when it came to the tragic story of the explorer from
Wilmington, NC, who actually discovered the Bishop Rock and then killed himself
immediately thereafter. I guarantee you no one from Wrightsville Beach knows
who he was, but he just led the most incredible life. He was probably the first
North American to cross the Andes, he visited Hawaii at the time of Melville,
met the last Hawaiian king. He saw hardcore combat in the Mexican-American War
and worked as an American spy.”
”Mel Fisher, the famous Floridian treasure hunter,
nearly died on a trip out there back in 1957. Dave Kalama’s dad nearly died out
there when Dave was just a tyke. The USS Enterprise, the longest ship in the
Navy, collided with the Bishop Rock and nearly sank. Then there were the guys
who tried to start up their own nation, Abalonia, out there on the Cortes Bank
in 1966. They actually almost succeeded, but instead the waves nearly killed
them. Matt Pruett called it ‘crackpot entrepreneurialism,’ and he’s right. But
there’s something more — almost like some spiritual or supernatural force
protecting all these lunatics. Maybe Archibald MacRae’s ghost, or some long-gone
Chumash warrior.”
”The bigger thing is that I think the Bank is just
such a place of larger-than-life, sort of quintessentially American experience. It was probably walked on by the first
Americans ten thousand years ago. Then these white, old west, and modern
explorer-conquerors eventually discover and try to colonize it — straight
up manifest destiny. People have tried to hoard it for treasure, fish, abalone,
sunken gold, waves. All these people want a piece of that rock.”
”I was also so nervous during the course of writing
the book. You know, would I have a chance to go out there and actually see it
break? I mean, some years, you just don’t get conditions to go at all. How
could I write a book if I didn’t get to see that? So I was just on pins and
needles through the fall and winter of 2009, hoping and praying for a window.”
”The first time we did go, the day after Christmas, it
was so still out there. But the waves were still 25 or so feet. Complete
silence until they broke. It was just surreal. Made me think of all the days
through a million years of history that it’s been just gigantic and perfect out
there but with no one to see it except the sea lions — like a giant
redwood tree falling in the forest. I brought my mask, fins, and snorkel and
was hoping to free dive that day on the inside, but Mark Healey was joking
about a sea lion carcass floating just outside the lineup. So I was like, ‘Umm,
I think I’ll stay on the ski.’ But even just drifting around and doing that was,
I dunno, ‘magisterial’ is maybe a good word. I said it in the book — it’s
like floating above the Monterey Bay aquarium, but there’s a sea monster, and
it nearly took me and the ski driver out one time too.”
”Then the second time we went, November 2010, it was
wayyyy bigger. Probably pushing 60 feet when we first got there. I’ve been out
on the boat at Todos and huge Maverick’s, and was standing on the point at
Waimea when Greg Long won the Eddie. None of that compared to being out so
close to all that energy on Rob Brown’s little boat. The guys towed in that
morning and then Greg, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, and Ian Walsh paddled in
later in the day. I just couldn’t believe a person would do that.”
”I’ve always been fascinated with big-wave surfing,
in part because I’m not a big-wave surfer. What these guys do, particularly with
regards to paddling in, to sitting there in the bulls’ eye and staring down
these five- or ten-story tall waves, is just incomprehensible to me. I became
really interested in trying to understand what was going on in the head of a
guy like Mike Parsons and Greg Long. It’s like what photographer Rob Brown said
in the book: basically big-wave surfing is mostly in your mind. They don’t
think like most people, and as a result they simply don’t even realize just how
radical they are.”
For more on Chris Dixon and Ghost Wave, visit www.GhostWaveBook.com
Confirmed appearances by Chris Dixon that will
include book signings and a Ghost Wave photo/video
presentation:
1.
Saturday, December 10th
11:00 a.m.
– 4:00 p.m.
Surf The
Earth Christmas Party
47 Da
Gullah Way, Pawleys Island, SC, 29585
843-235-3500
www.Surf-The-Earth.com
2.
Saturday, December 17th
12:00
– 2:00 p.m.
The Surf
Station
1020
Anastasia Boulevard, St. Augustine, FL, 32080
904-471-9463
www.Surf-Station.com
3. Tuesday,
December 20th
6:00 –
8:30 p.m.
Surfrider
Foundation/Cocoa Beach Surf Museum Holiday Party
Cocoa Beach
Surf Museum, 4275 N. Atlantic Avenue, Cocoa Beach, FL, 32931
www.CocoaBeachSurfMuseum.org
4.
Wednesday, December 21st
4:00
– 6:00 p.m.
PB Boys
Club Surf Shop, 307 South County Rd., Palm Beach, FL, 33480
(561)
832-9335
5.
Thursday, December 22nd
6:00
– 8:00 p.m.
BC Surf
& Sport, 1701 N. Federal Hwy., Ft. Lauderdale, FL, 33305
954-564-0202
www.BCSurf.com
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GIVING FOR GREGG
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DON’T GET WORKED
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FRIENDLY FIRE
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ARTISTS
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BEACON
OF SURF HISTORY
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