As a native east coaster from New York, enduring a long, flat summer here in Southern California made watching all of my friends and family back on Long Island score an all time September hurricane swell season all the more brutal. The only time I got back home to New York was at the tail end of the Hurricane Maria swell, for a wedding.
For a brief period of time, it looked like I was going to be able and time it just right and that I would be able to tell future generations about this legendary run of waves. Unfortunately, I made it home a day late and a dollar short and now my grandchildren can hear about the time I missed the tropical swell events of the century.
Needless to say, when the forecast for San Diego predicted Santa Ana winds along with a promising combo swell, I was committed to completely milking this entire run of waves. I teamed up with Joe Parrino, who was coming off a score of a visit back to his home break in Long Beach, New York, and, San Diego native, Jay Christenson. We chased barrels back and forth across the U.S. border from Baja Malibu, Mexico to Oceanside, California.
With the swell filling in all day Saturday, we decided on an early morning hop across the border to Baja, Mexico, in hopes of less crowded lineups and a bit more swell. I packed up all of my camera gear, we double checked our passports and tossed the boards into the bed of Joe’s truck and left for Mexico. Crossing the border is the easy part, getting to the beach without getting lost or pulled over is the tricky part. The boys spent hours surfing as I photographed and battled the current. Those who have scored heavy waves, tacos and cold beer know there is nothing like a successful surf trip south of the border.