UP NORTH TOUR Phlogging The New Year From Costa Rica With Tom
Dugan Words and photos by Tom Dugan
Each year in Costa Rica, we always head north
to surf Witches Rock, Ollie’s Point, Tamarindo, Langosta, Playa Negra, Avellanas,
and Playa Grande. With ESM Art Director
Dan Putnam in tow, off we went. Dan had never been up north, so it was a treat
for him to score some waves in the head-high range at a few new breaks.
We set up shop within a short walking distance of
the surf, and the morning high tides were just right for our trip. Being up at
5:30 a.m. each day for the surf check revealed glassy conditions with no one
out. That was soon to change every five minutes, as surfers came and came and
came until the water looked like a day at home with 40 people out spread up and
down the beach. Now no one said it’s not crowded in the north of Costa Rica,
but with the prevailing offshore winds and peaky conditions, finding your own
little wave to shred is not much of a problem. The biggest problem is the 13-foot
tide that you must deal with, as it considerably changes the surfing conditions
with each tide shift. Some waves disappear, others start up, but the key is to
know which wave is good on each tide.
I put Dan on the best wave for each tide shift
due to my old-timer’s knowledge of the breaks. I started coming here in 1982
when there were absolutely no other surfers around. I’m not saying I was the
first person there, just that when we went up north to surf in those days, we
never saw any other surfers. We caught some really good waves back then but
never could understand why no one was up there. Fast forward to 2011 and boy,
how things have changed.
There are over 10 surf shops, surf schools, and
surf tours all over the region, but what keeps us coming back is the quality of
the waves. East Coasters have made a stronghold up there opening hotels, surf shops,
restaurants, and stores. They have come to surf the waves that have offshore
winds most of the year and are constantly head-high or above on a daily basis.
We ran into Long Beach Island, NJ, surfer Randy
Townsend, who stays in Costa at least three months every winter to beat the
cold and snow. Randy had in fact just had his wedding there, so a few of his
boys from home were still on hand hanging out and sharing the warm weather.
Randy has been going to the north now for a few years and has received a bit of
local status by getting to know the Costa Ricans and sharing the Pura Vida
lifestyle.
Randy also shared plenty of waves with Playa
Grande Surf Store owner Marcelo Matos, who is one of the best surfers in
the region. If you need anything you forgot at home, stop by Playa Grande Surf
Store on the way to the surf and tell them ESM sent you. The waves in the north can be world class when the swell, tide, and
offshore winds all come together, so bring your board, wax, and girlfriend, and
enjoy the local culture. More likely than not, once you have tasted the waves
of northern Costa Rica, you most definitely will go back again.
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