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Blogging The New Year From Costa Rica With Tom Dugan Words and photos by Tom Dugan
While scouring the beaches of Playa Hermosa,
Costa Rica, for East Coast surfers, I have seen an abundance of talented Ticos
charging the waves. During any lull in our homeboys’ sessions, it's easy to be
drawn to those natives who call Playa Hermosa their homebreak or the place for
that day’s paddle-out.
It’s unbelievable the plethora of talent out
there ripping on every wave, but one of the most challenging things with the
shots I have taken of Costa Rican locals is to put names to their faces. But
with the help of local rippers and aerialists Diego Naranjo and Maykol Torres,
along with photographer Johan Pacheco, it wasn’t too tough a task. While
chowing down on a couple of pizzas from Caliche’s Wishbone, every shot
was given its rider’s name, providing this photographer with the ability to
give props accompanying the photos that follow.
They say that you learn something new every day,
and at dinner that night I learned that Diego and Lisbeth Vindas (Costa Rican's
#1 female surfer) have been married for more than three years. Now that’s a
pair of genes not to mess with! Lisbeth came walking in at the end of our meal
with a new board shaped by her brother Luis Vindas that was light as a feather,
and judging by Lisbeth’s performance the next morning, I’d say her brother can
shape with the best of them.
I have to say that my Spanglish is no match for
the mastery of the English language most Ticos I have come in contact with
possess. They do realize that tourism is number one and appreciate our presence,
but that being said, they expect the same respect we do at our home
breaks.
Having been coming
down to Costa Rica since 1980, I have gotten to know more Ticos and have been
taken by their generosity and excitement. As my “sidekick” says, “You know
more people in Costa Rica than back home!” That's not really true, but living
the Pura Vida life, there is more time to stop and share the stoke.
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