Photo
Blogging The New Year From Costa Rica With Tom Dugan Words and photos by Tom Dugan
Finally... a swell. Not huge, but just enough
to get the adrenaline flowing. Surfers are coming from all over to get away
from the nasty winter going on in the United States. Guys from up and down the
East Coast have been here getting warm water and overhead surf every day for
the last week. There was a pulse mid-week through the weekend that had a few
sizable sets and some clean tubes, but being East Coasters, everybody was
flying up and over, backwards, sideways, and making the most of their good
fortune to be getting larger waves.
What I have come to notice about the Costa
Rican locals, or “Ticos,” as they call themselves, is that they love to surf
with good surfers, watching their every move, seeing what type of equipment
traveling surfers are using and how the waves are utilized at every moment
during a session. Good ol’ boy Hunter Heverly says he’s been here for three months and is planning on staying in
Costa Rica for the next three, and he’s been showing the Ticos some
crazy moves on the daily in the warm and glassy conditions that have enabled
Fisher to really cut loose with his surfing. The biggest thing I have noticed is
just how far the Ticos have come in their surfing, with truly world-class
surfers springing up all over Costa Rica.
The locals are so dialed in now to each swell
and tide that they never miss good waves, and you can see this demonstrated by
how hard they surf. Every morning while checking the waves, cars drive by at
crazy speeds, zipping to the nearest sandbar or reef to make sure they’re
getting the best waves, hopefully before someone else shows up. Of course, Ticos
don't mind sharing, but like anywhere, you do not take their waves or drop in
on them.
After you’re surfed out, at about 10:00 in the
morning, you look for other things each day to keep you entertained. The Back
Yard Bar in Playa Hermosa has a weekly contest every Saturday, and all the
locals go out and rip each wave apart. No horns, no jerseys, just the boys or
anyone who would like to try and win some money for whoever gets the best rides
during the session. This past Saturday it was four- to six-foot glass and the
locals were just going loony on the waves. I saw some really impressive surfing,
and what was really funny was the beach announcer keeping the crowd excited by
continually yelling on the mic and calling out names after someone got a good
ride. It was a trip. If you can get there some Saturday, I highly
recommend it... and the chicas were not too bad on the eyes either.
The waves change day to day in Costa Rica. The
wind is light offshore in the morning and drops off again for the sunset sessions,
but what makes the difference is the size. When this swell finally got here, it
was nice to see some big ones rolling through. It has not maxed out yet —
not even close — but as far as swells go, it was a good one. I hope in
the next few weeks a REAL one comes through, though. As they always say, Pray
For Surf and Pura Vida….
17th Annual Quiksilver King Of The Peak Set
To Go Down In Solid Northeast Swell Conditions On November 6th-7th By
Nick McGregor; Captions by Dick “Mez” Meseroll READ MORE…
TENS ACROSS THE BOARD Blue Skies, Thousands Of Surf Fans, Pumping Head-High Peaks, And Red-Hot Performances All Combine For Spectacular Final Day Of Quiksilver Pro New York
STORMY WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY Cory Robbed, Gabe Bounced, Bobby Suspended, Damien And CJ Out, Kelly Swept Straight Into Round Four… What A Couple Of Days In New York
