PHLOGGING: HARD AT WORK Photo Blogging The 2011 North Shore Season With Tom Dugan By Tom Dugan
Spending a few
weeks in Hawaii during the month of December and seeing the best Pipeline to
hit in ten years was a real treat. The thing about Hawaii is every time I
visit, the waves are always the best I have seen anywhere that year. My four previous
trips there have been the same: up at 5:00 a.m., coffee, wave check, set up to
shoot photos around 8:00, and then just watch the surfers rotate in the lineup
as the day goes on. Visiting pros, locals, the brave East Coasters trying to
make a name for themselves or just enjoy Hawaii’s big surf…
And if you want to make
a name for yourself in the surfing world, you HAVE to surf the North Shore
in front of not just my camera but the international photogs and video guys as
well. And this year was no exception; every day there were waves, the photographers
and videographers were out in full force. Vero Beach, FL’s, Oliver Kurtz
has already been nominated for wave of the year, and so has Slater from some of
the west swell madness that hit Pipeline in mid-December. There were plenty of
small Rocky Point days with four- to eight-foot faces, and some Off The Wall
and Backdoor days in the six- to ten-foot range. Hell, there was even some baby
Waimea Bay. But when Pipeline started breaking, that's when the North Shore was
buzzing.
The locals were all
getting their share of waves: Sunny Garcia, Reef McIntosh, John John
Florence, and Jamie O'Brien all got some big ones. Even 1970s surf hero Rory
Russell was spotted paddling out on a brand-new single-fin Lightning Bolt. Alongside
them all grabbing the biggest and best scraps they could were East Coasters
like Balaram Stack, Oliver Kurtz, Nils Schweizer, Mark Yonkers, Leif Engstrom,
Rob Brown, and Puerto Rico's Brian Toth, just to name a few. But get some
good ones they all did. Check out the following photos to see what went down
during the two weeks ESM was on The Rock,
and look for our full coverage in the next issue hitting your local surf shop
on January 11th. Aloha Danno…
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